Friday, May 24, 2019

Laurel Fork South Wilderness, West Virginia

Not to be confused with a primitive area in Highland County Virginia, West Virginia's Laurel Fork South Wilderness a quintessential wilderness experience in our part of the country.  Once owned by the Laurel River Lumber Company, the company stripped the area of all timber then sold the land to the United States government – the common way for eastern national forests to obtain acreage.  Without road access, and deep within a remote part of the forest, just under 6,000 acres obtained federal wilderness designation in 1983. Only a single forest road separates this wilderness from another 6,000 acres of wilderness to the north.  Along with the Cranberry Wilderness, the Laurel Forks are the oldest federally designated wilderness areas in the state.  The Laurel Fork wildernesses however are much less visited than most other wilderness areas in the state.  As one source stated, this “is not a place you visit on your way to somewhere else.” It take effort to get here, and that makes for a great experience.

Laurel Fork South Wilderness contains 9.5 miles of trails.  This hike follows much of the main trail through the Wilderness, the Laurel Fork Trail, along with the Camp 5 Trail.  This route can be hiked as an out-and-back from either the north or south end of the Wilderness, or it can be completed using a 25 minute car shuttle.  This description will describe the hike north to south as a shuttle, though this hike’s length is short enough for many hikers to complete as an out-and-back day hike.

This route presents much of what is great about this wilderness.  Because it is nearly entirely within federally designated wilderness, we do not recommend that inexperienced hikers attempt this hike. The trails, though generally easy to follow, are unblazed, seldom signed, and can seem to disappear at times.  Cellphone coverage is nonexistent.  The difficulty rating applies more to your remoteness, as there are no hard climbs. It follows two streams for its entire length. Wilderness regulations limit groups to ten or fewer hikers.

Mile 0.0 – Start the hike in the back end of the Laurel Fork Campground. Camping is available here between April 15 and December 1, at a cost of $10.00 per night. There is space in the back of this 15 site campground for a couple of vehicles, behind the campground privy.  Look for the trail sign and map at the back of the campground – this is the start of the trail.  Take a photo of the map if you do not have one with you. 
Parking area, noted from tire tracks.  At back of campground.

Trail starts here.

Mile 0.1 – The trail splits nearly right away, with one path going straight and another trail heading right, a little higher, passing by a piped spring.  The trails rejoin shortly after the spring.

Mile 0.5 – The Forks Trail comes in from the west here.  It is easy to miss this intersection. Down by the river is a grove of hemlocks that create a nice campsite, about 100 yards off trail, with no trail leading to it. We once passed a ranger here, camping with his little girls, who said this is the best campsite in the entire national forest!  From here, the trail varies between looking down at Laurel Fork and coming right next to the streambed always on the west side of Laurel Fork.
Trail looks down on river.

Trail nest to river.

Mile 1.5 – Cross a small stream and come to a trail intersection.  This is the end of the Beulah Trail (T310), which ascends west to FR 14 and then continues to its western terminus at FR 44, about a half mile north of the trailhead for the High Falls of the Cheat.  Continue straight on the Laurel Fork Trail.
Trailhead sign.

Mile 2.7 – The trail enters a level, somewhat swampy area where the trail seems to disappear.  This is the only tough area to follow the route.  Cross through the field, cut through a small area of trees, and come to another field.  Cross that field, and look for a stone cairn in the woods on the other side, which marks the trail.  Do not go upslope, but stay somewhat near the stream.  If you just charge through this area, you should see a defined trail again on the other side of these fields.  Recognize that the fields can get pretty high towards the end of summer, as shown by this photo of the trail here, taken in late July.
May photo.  Trail disappears.

July photo.

Mile 2.9 – Cross a small stream. 
Mile 3.3 – The canopy opens up briefly to provide a view of the nearby countryside before dropping back under cover.  Shortly after this point, at Mile 3.5, the trail reconnects with Laurel Fork and a fine campsite can be seen directly across the stream. The trail is wonderfully dark and mysterious through here, thanks to a large grove of hemlocks that have become a rarity in the past 25 years.

Campsite across Laurel Fork

Mile 4.1 – Travel through a series of fine campsites, located under a grove of hemlocks. In the middle of this grove, the trail crosses Camp Five Run, which can be a somewhat tough crossing in the Spring.  Look for a trail to your right just after the stream crossing.  This is the Camp Five Run Trail.  Leave the Laurel Fork Trail here and turn right onto the Camp Five Run Trail, which follows Camp Five Run.   

Camp Five Run Trail sign.

Campsite at trail intersection.
Mile 5.0 – Encounter the first of a series of four stream crossings within a short amount of time.

Mile 5.7 – Exit the wilderness between a pair of signs and come into an open area with a pond on your right.  This pond is popular with fishermen.  Turn around here if this hike is an out-and-back.

Mile 5.8 – Pass the Middle Mountain Cabins on your left. These are depression-era cabins originally built for forest service workers. The end of the Camp Five Run Trail goes right through the parking lot and access road for these cabins.  Respect the privacy of anyone staying there and continue out to FR 14.  You can leave a car on the opposite side of FR 14 from the access to the cabins, leaving the lot you walk through for renters.  The Camp Five Run Trail is marked at FR 14. 

Mile 6.0 – Cross FR 14 to your vehicle.

This is a pretty easy trail with little elevation gain, but an inexperienced hiker could get lost here. The trail never crosses Laurel Fork.  The length as described is 6.0 miles with a total elevation gain of about 900 feet.  It takes 2.5-3.5 hours to complete.

Trailhead Map:

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

Smoke Camp Trail, Monongahela NF, WV

Just off of US 250, just west of the Virginia/West Virginia border, is the Smoke Camp Trail.  Drive by the trailhead 50 times and it is possible you will never notice a trail.  But a trail is here, and it leads to a great overlook that few people know exist.

Hike Length: 4.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 1300’
Hike Time: 3.0 hours.
The Smoke Camp Trail climbs from West Virginia Route 28 to the site of an old fire tower via a loop interpretive trail called the Rothkugel Loop.  Though parking is nonexistent on site requiring a short road walk, the hike’s lone vista makes this hike worth the trouble.

Mile 0.0 – Park at a wide spot on the road to Lake Buffalo (Forest Service Road 54), a little off of WV 28 just north of where 28 splits with US 250.  There is parking for 2 or 3 cars here.  Walk from here back to WV 28 and turn right (north), taking care to watch for traffic on the highway.

Mile 0.2 – This blue blazed trail starts 0.2 miles north on 28 from FS 54, behind a large sign and across from a yellow house.
The sign discusses the history of the tract where the hike starts. Trees were planted here in 1907 on land that later became one of the first tracts of the Monongahela National Forest.  Interpretive signs on the Rothkugel Loop, which is the start of the hike, discuss the history of the land, discuss forestry concepts, and illuminate the life of the man who planted the trees, Max Rothkugel.  The signs are informative and interesting, and it is curious that the National Forest created such an interesting exhibit without including even a small parking lot off of the road in front.  Stay to the left at the intersection just inside the forest; you will return via the trail on the right.

Mile 0.6 – After passing multiple exhibits about the forest, come to a trail intersection.  Take a left onto the Smoke Camp Trail and leave the tract of planted trees for a forest of natives.  The trail begins to climb here, and some claim that this trail is among the steepest in the Monongahela National Forest.  It climbed at about a 15% grade, however, which is not unusual in the Appalachians.
Mile 1.0 – Cross a small stream and continue to ascend.  Stinging Nettle can be found among the forest undergrowth uphill from this point.  The nettle does not grow in the trail, and its hollow stems means that a hiking pole can easily take it down, but any hiker who has experienced this plant can tell you that it is well named.  Hiking this trail in mid-May presented no nettle issues, but later in the Summer may be different.  Bring poles if you have them. 
Mile 1.9 – Reach an old woods road and turn left, continuing uphill.  Remember to be alert on your return, so you do not continue past this intersection on the woods road.
Mile 2.1 – The Smoke Camp Trail officially ends at an open, but lightly used forest road (FR 58).  Take a right on this road and continue uphill. 

Mile 2.2 – The road ends at a circle, which encloses a small picnic area with grill and picnic table. The concrete posts that once supported the fire tower are still visible.   There are wonderful views of nearby mountains in the Laurel Fork Roadless Area to the east.  This is the Smokecamp Overlook, which a worker at the National Forest’s nearby Greenbrier Ranger District said was only recently cleared – in 2018 – and few people know about.  After soaking in the views, return via the road to the Smoke Camp Trail.  Take care to follow the route you took up to the overlook.

One of the exhibits at the bottom of the mountain shows a photo of the first and second fire towers, and states that the larger tower was built in 1928 and lasted until the 1950s.
Mile 3.8 – Return to the intersection you passed on the way up, and reenter the Rothkugle Plantation tract.  Continue straight this time, to complete the Rothkugle Loop and read about what happened to forester Max Rothkugle.   
Mile 4.3 – Arrive at the end of the Rothkugle Loop.  Exit the forest and return to WV 28, taking care to watch for traffic on this road.  Take a left (south) back toward your vehicle, taking another left when you return to the Lake Buffalo road.
Mile 4.5 – Return to your vehicle.

Trailhead Parking Location:

Monday, March 18, 2019

Forge Mountain Trail, Goshen WMA

I've been over Forge Mountain several times, but stayed away from putting the hike on hikingupward because the start of the trail is a little hard to follow.  Here is how it works.

Start in the same parking lot where the swinging bridge at the beginning of the Jump Mountain hike.  Instead of crossing the bridge, head back to VA 39 and cross the road.  Directly across the road you may see a white blaze.  That blaze signals the Guy's Run Trail.  You are going to follow that up a little valley for a couple hundred yards before the trail cuts diagonally out of the valley to the right. It may be hard to see.  You'll go up about 20 feet in elevation and level out in a somewhat swampy area.  You should see some cut logs in the area.
Trail start as seen from VA 39.

As you approach Forge Mountain, it can also be a problem following the trail again.  I remember my first time going through a downed tree that had been sawed - it was obvious that I was on the trail.  But I could not tell where the trail went next.  After a while I figured it out - it cut up the slope to the right at an angle and then switchbacked to the left.  You may see some white blazes, but really, you need to feel for the trail here.  Once you get past here, though, the rest of the trail is pretty easy to follow.
T Intersection.  Take a left onto a woods road.
At 0.4 miles from your car, the Guy's Run Trail comes to a T intersection at an old road.  To the right, the trail goes out to the Guy's Run Road, which climbs all the way to the summit of Big Butt Mountain.   It can be a great way to return to this point., instead of retracing over Forge Mountain.

For now, take a left on the road, which is the beginning of the Forge Mountain Trail.  It continues for a while and then cuts right, heading directly up Forge Mountain. The climb can be steep at times.

At 0.8 miles, keep an eye to the left of the trail for a sign telling you about a side trail to a small overlook that has a view of Lake Merriweather to the north - which is surrounded by Boy Scout camps from the DC area. The viewpoint could use some trimming.
See the sign on the left for the overlook.
View from first overlook.
Other than that, you will head straight up Forge Mountain without switchbacks.  During the warmer months, you will notice a lot of Sassafras along the climb.
Sassafras defines the trail.

At 2.2 miles, you will have crested and begin to see an overlook on the left.  Stay away from the edge at first, as the overlook is better 50 yards further.  Be sure to stop - this is the money spot of this hike, with views east of Big Butt Mountain and beyond to the Blue Ridge.

The Forge Mountain Trail continues past this overlook to crest near the eponymous rock, shown above, before dropping down to an area cleared for power lines at 3.1 miles.  There is a trail under the power lines, and a trail continues on the other side.  That trail is easy to see during the winter but much harder to see during the growing seasons.

There are many options past this point, and I've now taken all of them.  To the right, you can follow the trail under the power lines,  It takes you to some great views before dropping precipitously as a bushwhack to Guy's Run Road and the other end of the Guy's Run Trail.
Near the summit of Big Butt Mountain, a trail heads back to Forge Mtn.
To the left, the trail under the power lines takes you down to the Laurel Run Road, which comes out on 39 at the picnic shelter in Goshen Pass.

Going straight across the power lines will take you to the Cooper's Knob Trail, also white blazed.  It can be hard to find in growing season - I did not find it the first time I hiked this area in October, but when I hiked it in mid-March, it was very easy to see.  This trail climbs over Cooper's Knob then drops down to a road at 4.1 miles. This road, to the right, connects with the Guy's Run Road and to the left, summits the 3451 foot high Big Butt Mountain at 5.9 miles.  The Big Butt summit, though now tree covered, once included a fire tower which must have had a commanding view of many surrounding counties.  Near the top of Big Butt is another trail, which heads back north towards the power line cut.  It is essentially a bushwhack, though it contains occasional white blazes, as shown below.
Ridge coming down from Big Butt Mountain seems like a blazed bushwhack.
If you take this route back from Big Butt summit, be sure to stay on the ridge top.  After a while, the road that seems to be the trail cuts right (east) down the mountain - do not follow this!  Staying along the ridge, you will sometimes see a trail and sometimes not, until you reach the power lines.  Turn left (west) and follow the power line road down to Laurel Run.  There is a road here which could take you out to a shuttle vehicle on 39 (by far the best option!), or you could climb the power line road back up to the end of the Forge Mountain Trail.  This climb is brutal!  If you do this, be sure to follow the road behind the metal gate to the right.  I am not sure where the road to the left goes.
Under the power lines.
A hike up Forge Mountain, over Cooper's Knob, summitting Big Butt Mountain, then following the ridge back to the power lines and back to the Forge Mountain trail, is 12.8 miles with 4075 feet elevation gain.  The elevation profile is shown below.
A hike up Forge Mountain, then down the power line cut to Guy's Run Road and looping back to the beginning of the trail via the Guy's Run Trail, is shorter and easier at 7.9 miles, though the drop off of the mountain is a steep bushwhack.  The Guy's Run Trail is not marked from the Guy's Run Road, but it starts as a gated road on the right, next to a campsite, that quickly crosses Guy's Run.

Looking down at Guy's Run from Forge Mountain, under the power lines.

Wednesday, March 13, 2019

Middle Mountain Trail/Douthat State Park

Middle Mountain forms the western boundary of Douthat State Park.  This loop hike starts and ends in the George Washington National Forest, and clips the northeastern corner of the State Park.  This is a hike best taken during the winter because of a lack of open viewpoints.

Parking at wide spot in the road.

Swift climb from trailhead.
Mile 0.0 – Park at a wide spot in Smith Creek Road, just after the road crosses Wilson Creek.  There is parking for 3 or 4 cars here.  At first, you may not see the blue blazed trail leaving the road because the trail sign is gone – only a post remains.  It is on the other side of Wilson Creek from where you parked.  You drop down next to the creek before ascending.  The ascent is a quick one as the slope of Middle Mountain is steep, but a series of superbly constructed switchbacks make the ascent a relatively easy one.  The Civilian Conservation Corps likely built this trail during the Great Depression, based on a review of historic topographic maps. After several switchbacks, look down, and it seems like you are directly above the road and the creek. 
Trail as seen from Smith Creek Road
Mile 0.8 – Paint blazes on the trees indicate a fork in the trail, however there is no trail sign at this intersection.  You will return on the trail to the left (the Brown Mountain Connector Trail), but should now take the trail to the right.  The Middle Mountain Trail now sports both a blue and a yellow blaze for the rest of your hike on this trail.  The yellow blaze represents the Allegheny Highlands Trail System, a 63 mile system of hiking, mountain biking, and equestrian trails connecting Douthat State Park with George Washington National Forest lands in Bath and Alleghany counties.  Up until this point of the hike the trail has been “hikers only,” but your route now opens up to horses and mountain bikers at this intersection.
Intersection with Brown Mtn Connector Trail.
Mile 2.9 – You will continue to climb for the entire time you hike the Middle Mountain Trail, with wintertime ridge top views of Douthat Lake, the sawtooth mountains to the left and additional mountains to the right.  The high point of the hike is at a trail intersection.  You are now about 1000 feet higher than the start of this hike and are in the northeastern corner of Douthat State Park.  Take the orange blazed trail to your left, leaving the crest of the ridge and descending for nearly two trail miles, into Douthat State Park on the Salt Stump Trail. Note that Douthat State Park prohibits camping outside of designated campsites. If you choose to make this an overnight backpack, the ridge of Middle Mountain is probably your best bet. 
Ascending Middle Mountain Trail.
Middle Mtn Trail intersection with Douthat's Salt Stump Trail.
Mile 4.1 – After hiking along the slope of Middle Mountain, come to a trail intersection with the yellow blazed Pine Tree Trail on your right.  Continue on the orange blazed Salt Stump Trail to the left. 
View from trail of Douthat Lake, far below.
Mile 4.4 – Cross a stream. 

Salt Stump Trail.

Mile 4.7 – Another trail intersection.  Take the trail signed Brown Hollow Trail to the left, which is both yellow and blue blazed.  At this intersection, the trail exits Douthat State Park and re-enters the George Washington National Forest.  The forest composition changes dramatically here, becoming a thick canopy of relatively young trees.  This area appears to have been clearcut at some point in its history.
Trail Intersection.

After a stream crossing and a brief walk straight upslope, take a right onto an old woods road.  Perhaps this was the access road for the clearcut?

Mile 5.2 – Pass a small wildlife pond on your right. This section of trail may be somewhat overgrown during some parts of the year.
Small pond on right.

Mile 5.4 – Cross another small stream.   
Mile 6.5– Arrive at the end of the forest road open to traffic part of the year. FS125A, Brown Hollow Road, is open April and May, and again from September 1 through the end of January, but is gated the rest of the year.  Continue on this road, over a stream.
Road ahead.
Mile 6.9 – Look for a trail on your left as the road curves sharply left. There is no sign here.  Follow uphill the trail, which is blazed yellow and blue.  Begin an ascent that lasts a little over half a mile; it is your last ascent of this hike.
Along the Brown Mtn Connector Trail.
Mile 8.0 – Complete the loop by arriving again at the Middle Mountain Trail.  Take a right here, to retrace your steps and descend Middle Mountain to your vehicle.
Descending to trailhead.

Mile 8.8 – Return to the trailhead.